Physiognomy is a Psudo-science that was “studied” by 19th and Early 20th century actors and makeup artists to improve their study of faces. Unfortunately, the mid 19th & early 20th Century books on this fake “science” in these eras existed primarily to promote racist, sexist, and xenophobic views which trickled into the designs of stage makeup. Racists worldwide continue to cite this nonsense to “prove” superiority to groups and individuals they hate. This book is a particularly egregious example of this sort of thing, and was massively popular in late 19th Century America, so popular you can still easily find copies of it for sale on eBay for under 10 dollars.
1867 New Physiognomy : or, Signs of Character Samuel Wells
My first eBay “find” in my study and acquisition of early stage makeup information was this tiny color lithographed pamphlet. I originally assigned a c. 1900 date to it because of the styles of women’s hair in it, (some looked 1890s to me while others seemed a bit 1910-ish, so having no other reference, I split the difference). It was made in Germany (the home of the best stage makeup and best lithography in the first decades of the 20th Century) for the US market, specifically for the Chicago firm of F. W. Nack (theatrical wig and makeup sellers) at a date unknown. Since I first obtained it, I have been able to learn that F.W. Nack was in business from at least 1917 until at least 1957 according to a few ads found in various newspapers and theatre publications. Several of the plates strongly resemble images in Das Schminken, (which appears to be a book from closer to 1910), especially the “Yankee Farmer” who closely resembles the “Schneider” (Tailor-Cutter) in that book, and the “Chinese” and “Hebrew” plates. I don’t know if this means this was partly the copy of the other or both were based on an unknown earlier German book. So the date is most probably later than 1900, but I have no definitive “hook” for a better date as yet. If you do, please let me know!
Pretty much all makeup books from this era until the 1950s had some pretty amazing racist/sexist content, though the gorgeous bright color lithography of this tiny booklet still is the most intense rendition of these jaw droppingly offensive styles I’ve ever found. The intensity of the colors is most probably not an exaggeration. Early electric stage light, especially arc light follow spots, really washed out faces. Note the intensity of color on the white characters as well. There is lots of rouge, blue shadows, and on older characters even yellow highlights are used. When I first got this little booklet, I tried doing the three ages of respectable white lady makeup from this book, (not the sexy “soubrette” or the man-in-drag comic “old maid”) and did this:
I come out looking angrier than they do but that has to do with my naturally “evil eyebrows”.
Vintage Powder Room (primarily street makeup info and packaging from 1900-1950s)
Physiognomy
Physiognomy is a Psudo-science that was “studied” by 19th and Early 20th century actors and makeup artists to improve their study of faces. Unfortunately, the mid 19th & early 20th Century books on this fake “science” in these eras existed primarily to promote racist, sexist, and xenophobic views which trickled into the designs of stage makeup. Racists worldwide continue to cite this nonsense to “prove” superiority to groups and individuals they hate.
A SIDE NOTE: I designed makeup for the DVC production of The Mystery of Edwin Drood using the highligted books above, and the actors did their best to follow my designs. SEE THEM HERE!
