Tag Archives: patterns

Costume History, Menswear

“Falcon” fold collar, Arrow Brand, Cluett, Peabody & Co. c.1904-1919

The “Falcon” Collar by Arrow Brand of Cluett, Peabody & Co. shows a 1904 patent for the unusual curved shape of the inner neck band. The outer shape is a style that both existed at that time but was most often seen in ads from 1914-1919. Cluett used this unusual  shape for a minority of their collars for a number of years as a special “comfort” style of collar that appealed to some customers.
The “Falcon” collar as laid out flat on a scanner.
Arrow “Falcon” Collar scan that can be printed out and used to make a pattern. Part 1 of 2
Arrow “Falcon” Collar scan that can be printed out and used to make a pattern. Part 2 of 2
1919 ad for rival brand Ide collars, showing several similar styles to the “Falcon”.
1914 ad for the similar looking “Winona” collar by Arrow Brand, illustrated by J.C. Leyendecker
  Similar shape of collar from 1914: “Haverstock” by Ide
Costume History, Menswear

“Inada” wing collar, Cluett, Peabody & Co. Arrow Brand Early 20th Century

Early 20th Century wing collar “Inada” by Cluett, Peabody & Co Arrow Brand. You can print this scan out to use as a pattern.
Early 20th Century wing collar “Inada” by Cluett, Peabody & Co Arrow Brand.
Early 20th Century wing collar “Inada” by Cluett, Peabody & Co Arrow Brand.
This 1907 Arrow Collar “Addison” is similar to the “Inada”.
Costume History, Menswear

“Tyfold” fold collar, 1902 by Cluett, Peabody & Co. Arrow Brand

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Cluett, Peabody & Co, Arrow Collar the “Tyfold” type Three from 1903 as worn by the character Nucky Thompson in the first season of Boardwalk Empire
Scanned image of the Tyfold collar laid flat. You can print these out and use them as a pattern.
Scanned image of the Tyfold collar laid flat. You can print these out and use them as a pattern.
Scanned image of the Tyfold collar laid flat. You can print these out and use them as a pattern.
Scanned image of the Tyfold collar laid flat. You can print these out and use them as a pattern.

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UPDATE! I have found 5 different styles of advertisement for the Tyfold to be found in American newspapers in 1903, pretty well blanketing most of the USA. I’m finding Newspapers.com to be the best way to research a date for a debut of a major brand’s collar. This is especially true for a “gadget” type collar that uses a new patented feature. Click on each thumbnail to see more:

The Tyfold’s patented keyhole front feature was apparently not printed on the collar, because the Cluett Co. did not own the patent outright. According to Google Patents it was invented by Edwin F. Brown in 1902:

Also according to this small note in a 1903 newspaper, a “string” tie without a fat back band fit in the collar best: