Tag Archives: Hard Collars

Places to buy Detachable Collars, get them laundered, etc.

February 26, 2019 tara@costumes.org

Buying Collars:

Amazon Drygoods (Predates Amazon.com to which it is not related. It is a long standing historical clothing supply store, it sells new paper and cloth ready-made collars in historical styles, collar buttons and shirt fronts. The pressed paper and laminate , and can usually last through a 3-weekend run of a college play. The collars are made on the original 1860s machinery of the Reversible Collar Company, original maker of Linene collars, a paper-cloth laminate, which Amazon Drygoods purchased in the 1980s when after the R.C. Co. and it’s successor Gibson-Lee went under after over 100 years of business. So, though these are laminate, they are actually some of the most period-correct collars you can get).

Etsy Store: Fogey Unlimited (Sells vintage and new menswear including new linen collars in vintage designs).

Historical Emporium (Reenactor Clothing, lots of cool stuff.)

Etsy Store: Hidden River Finds (Vintage/antique clothing including many early 20th Century collars).

New & Lingwood (UK company that makes menswear including Eton uniforms since 1865, still makes collars).

Premiere Designs Historic Clothing (Victorian/Edwardian historical reenactor supply, including collars.

Darcy Clothing (Has historical style collars both made like original models. and in machine washable stays stiff with no starch models).

Barker Collars (UK Sells formal wear, including bespoke (aka custom-made) collars, and has a starching service.)

Luke Eyres Specializes in making parts for all those old and fun traditional British uniforms for sports (cricket of course) and professions (clerical, legal, military) that still use styles worked out 100+ years ago. As a result, they sell styles of collar that are not available in the usual Victorian/Edwardian reenactor sites in the US. So if you need legal or clerical bands or 19th Century style military collars etc, they have the lot.

USHist.com (Sells new made Victorian collar styles to reenactors).

Vintage Dancer page on “Where to buy detachable collars”, that lists even more places.

Laundering Collars:

Wizner Dry Cleaning NYC Dry Cleaner – Dry Cleaning Specialists in Fine Garments, Rugs, Linens, Theatrical Costume, Mascot Cleaning. Also does Starched Detachable Collars!

Barker Laundry Service (UK. The folks who did Downton Abbey’s Collars.)

Live Journal posts on Starching

Fedora Lounge: Instructions for Home Starching

Costume History, Menswear

Some Books For Studying The Detachable Collar Industry History in the USA

February 10, 2019 tara@costumes.org

I’ve been working on assigning dates to Detachable Starched Collars I own with information I’ve found through advertisements in Newspapers.com , Patent Records, clipped ads for sale on eBay, etc but was looking for more. Now I have run into some online copyright expired books and magazines that I think may help with doing this also. Many later collars have a lot of information about brand names, place of origin and manufacturing company names printed on the inside that help with this, and these books seem like they may be useful for narrowing down dates on collars by tracking the history of the name changes in the companies. Collar companies in the US were constantly eating one another, combining, breaking apart and vanishing through the whole second half of the 19th Century and first half of the 20th Century. Cluett for example went through all sorts of changes that may help date their collars. Some parts of these books seem to track a few of the dates of these mutations. If there is someone with better obsessive compulsive genes for working on forming this into cheat sheets and databases of collar names and dates faster, feel free to try. Meanwhile, if you are looking to “date” your own collars this is a good place to start.

HathiTrust – The City of Troy and its Vicinity 1876 Arthur James Weise
The Clothier and Furnisher at HathiTrust Magazine Volumes from 1882-1926
Troy’s one hundred years, 1789-1889 Arthur James Weise
The Clothier’s and Haberdasher’s Weekly at HathiTrust
Magazine volumes from 1892-1901
The Clothier and Furnisher 1896 [Magazine] Geo. N. Lowrey Co.
The Clothier and Furnisher 1904 [Magazine] Geo. N Lowrey Co.
Men’s Wear at HathiTrust Magazine volumes 1905-1909
Men’s Wear 1907 [Magazine] Fairchild Co.
Fairchild’s Men’s Wear Directory 1907 [New York]
Men’s Wear 1909 [Magazine] Fairchild Co.
Men’s Wear 1910 [Magazine] Fairchild Co.
The Clothier and Furnisher 1910 [Magazine] Geo. N Lowrey Co.
The Shirt and Collar Industries 1916 Dept of Commerce US Govt Printing Office
The Haberdasher 1921 [Magazine] The Haberdasher Co.
The Haberdasher 1922 [Magazine] The Haberdasher Co.

New! Online Articles on Collars & Related Topics:

Library and Museum Collections for Study Related to Collars

Arrow Collar Collection (Advertising) at Washington University St. Louis, MO, USA
Old listing of Arrow Collar Collection at Washington University, St.Louis with lots of details on the collection.
Under Cover: J.C. Leyendecker and American Masculinity

Costume History

Hand Drawn Collar patterns of Early 20th Century Detachable Collars Pt5: two Masculine cut Women’s Embroidered Collars

January 27, 2019 tara@costumes.org

Here are yet more drawings I made c. 1980 of my beginning collar collection. These are women’s collars that evoke the shapes of men’s Early 20th Century collars but have embroidery on them to make them less masculine looking.

The first vintage celluloid-covered collar box I ever purchased with some of the women’s collars I had collected by the early 1980s.

Ladies Floral Embroidered Collar, with a lock front. The fabric is lighter than is standard for a man’s collar, with no internal stiffening in between the layers of the band. The collar section is a single layer of thin material with an embroidered edge. All is starched to a rigidity that allows it to appear to be made of heavy stiff paper.

When closed, it makes a near tube shape.

Note the extra fabric at left. This “lock front” cut allows the tube to stay rigid at front with a single stud, preventing a pinch at the neck.

Ladies Embroidered Dot Collar with a lock front, very similar to the above but with two layers on the collar part. The dots are satin stitched.

Costume History, Menswear

Hand Drawn Collar patterns of Early 20th Century Detachable Collars Pt4: Three Soft Collars for Men

January 27, 2019 tara@costumes.org

More of my drawings made c.1980.

Cluett, Peabody & Co. Inc., Aratex, “Lane”

Arrow Cluett Peabody & Co. Inc, “Pell” Roll-Front, Light Weight Collar

Costume History, Menswear

Hand Drawn Collar patterns of Early 20th Century Detachable Collars Pt3: Two Wing Collars, the “Lido” & “Host”

January 27, 2019 tara@costumes.org

More collars from my early collection drawn c.1980

Arrow-De Luxe “Lido”, a wing collar with an unusual front notch.

Earle & Wilson “Host” wing collar, one of the most common wing collars to find.

Costume History, Menswear

Hand Drawn Collar patterns of Early 20th Century Detachable Collars Pt1: Four Wing Collars and a club Collar, the Ashbourne-2

January 26, 2019 tara@costumes.org

One of the things that has weirdly defined my life is that pretty much since I went to college and first got serious about costuming I have been working on writing a costume book. It never gets finished, but I make lots of components for it. In the 1990s this morphed into The Costumers Manifesto web site, but back around the late 1970s and early 1980s it was just a few random things that interested me. Detachable hard collars have always had a fascination for me and so in those pre-Internet and pre-home printer/scanner/copier days I set out to make life size drawings to be used as patterns of my then small collar collection (back when it still fit in a single large cookie tin) in imitation of my hero Janet Arnold. These were laboriously hand drawn with a Rapidograph, a high maintenance technical pen that is the ancestor of my now favorite Signo Uniball pens.

Diagram of the ends of 4 types of early 20th Century wing collars, suitable for using to make patterns.

The idea with all these is that since both sides of the collar are identical, you can use them to form a pattern that you can lengthen to the needed size so long as you have the basic shape. In all cases seam allowance must be added!

Costume History, Menswear

Parsons & Parsons Co. Celluloid Collar Pamphlets, Probably 1926 or later

January 20, 2019 tara@costumes.org

I recently purchased these pamphlets showing celluloid collars. They show the available collar brand varieties of the Parsons & Parsons Company’s three sub-brands in a given year. I have been hunting through Newspapers.com trying to work out the year of these pamphlets. I have tentatively described them as post 1926 since I own one of the collars, a Par Brand, Amherst collar which has a 1926 patent date on it.

Costume History, Menswear

c.1910 Corliss-Coon & Co “The Style Book” of Detachable Men’s Collars And Cuffs

January 3, 2019 tara@costumes.org

Small (4.5″x7″) booklet made for small retail firms to give to customers promoting the collars by the Corliss-Coon Company being advertised in Newspapers in 1910. The cover has been personalized with the retailer S.M. Myers & Company of Lancaster, Pennsylvania, a retailer who occasionally is mentioned in newspapers during 1908 -1918.

May 20, 1910 half page Ad in the Lebanon PA Daily News, advertising the collars in the booklet as “new” indicating the probable date of the booklet as 1910.

Costume History, Menswear

Box of c.1918 Early 20th Century Military Collars

July 5, 2018 tara@costumes.org

A recent eBay purchase of assorted starched linen military collars in an old box of a French brand of military collars. Sizes are in centimeters, and the names are in French and English. Most of the collars are straight bands and one is a curved band. This page has scans of the collars flattened out so you can use them to make your own straight or curved WWI military collars in these styles.

These are all band collars that button into the neck of a military tunic like this one seen on General Pershing c. 1918

It just forms a small edge in the interior collar, and meets in the front without buttoning closed.

1a Mako garant. 4 fach collar M 465 Uniform 40 36:

PDF of 1a Mako garant 4 fach collar M 465 Uniform 40 36

You can use these patterns above to make replicas of this curved military collar.

1a. Qual. 4 Jacky Uniform 37:

PDF of 1a Qual 4 Jacky Uniform 37

You can use these patterns above to make replicas of this straight military collar.

ST 70 Armee 37:

PDF of ST 70 Armee 37

You can use these patterns above to make replicas of this straight military collar.

17 Armee 45:

PDF of 17 Armee 45

You can use these patterns above to make replicas of this straight military collar.

Costume History, Menswear

1926 Celluloid, Parsons and Parsons, Par Brand, Amherst Collar

July 5, 2018 tara@costumes.org

Celluloid collars provided a low maintenance, waterproof, alternative to starched linen collars, and were stronger than paper ones. Their high point seems to have been in the 1880s when they were new, but they still regularly sold through the 1920s. Celluloid collars are given to cracking, especially after they age, so this one can’t be flattened and scanned for a pattern. However, you can use a bleach bottle and a pattern from a linen collar to make a replica that is stronger than celluloid, washable, and cheap.