Tag Archives: Detachable Collars

Costume History, Menswear

Cluett, Peabody & Co., Arrow Brand, “Amolek” linen fold collar for men (post 1899).

I recently purchased a small early 20th Century man’s collar bag on eBay with 7 collars still in it.  It was an ordinary enough travel bag such as any middle class man might own in the 1890-1920 era, but unusually, the 7 collars were each a different style, with several different brands represented. 

As I care about collecting different types of these collars, rather than the more expensive hobby of collecting the containers, it was a good deal.  The Arrow Amolek was one of these.  

This general style of collar was popular in the 1890s-1920s, but seems to be most popular in the mid 1890s and late 1910s.

Similar looking collars from 1894
Similar shape of collar from 1914: “Haverstock” by Ide
1916 Arrow Ashby Lexicon
1919 Arrow Argonne
1919 Earl & Wilson Silk Moire Soft Collars in similar styles

However, the collar cannot be from the mid 1890s as the Cluett company was not called “Cluett, Peabody and Co.” until 1899, so it is a post-1899 collar.

However, I know what you really want is those handy collar scans which can be used to make collar patterns.  This one you can use if you need the same size as the original and have a long-paper printer:

Or this one for making a collar to another size which can print on 8.5×11 paper:

Costume History, Menswear

1871 patented Narraganset Collar Company “Elmwood” paper fold collar for men, with original box.

I recently purchased this Early 1870s Man’s card stock weight Paper Collar for study and sharing.  It came in an exceptionally nifty full color box, such is often found in 1870s -1880s collars.  I’m guessing originally the box would have contained more than one, as these collars are rather fragile.  The box has both a color lithographed top picture and a side indicator of size, both pasted on the yellow top of the box. 

Despite the splendor of the box, however, the collar is the real treasure. It has an unusually complex folding system for making the shape. I have photographed and scanned it every which way so you can see how it is made, and even reproduce it with cardstock on your own!

The Collar

The pattern of the collar as scanned, both partly folded and completely unfolded:

If Paper collars intrigue you, go to the cool illustrated 6 part scholarly article by Brenton Grom on the Disposable America site entitled Slaves of Fashion, Loafers of Industry: A History of Paper Collars and the Men Who Wore Them which has lots of pictures, incisive comment, research and, conveniently, patent illustrations that also can be used as patterns!

Costume History, Menswear

“Falcon” fold collar, Arrow Brand, Cluett, Peabody & Co. c.1904-1919

The “Falcon” Collar by Arrow Brand of Cluett, Peabody & Co. shows a 1904 patent for the unusual curved shape of the inner neck band. The outer shape is a style that both existed at that time but was most often seen in ads from 1914-1919. Cluett used this unusual  shape for a minority of their collars for a number of years as a special “comfort” style of collar that appealed to some customers.
The “Falcon” collar as laid out flat on a scanner.
Arrow “Falcon” Collar scan that can be printed out and used to make a pattern. Part 1 of 2
Arrow “Falcon” Collar scan that can be printed out and used to make a pattern. Part 2 of 2
1919 ad for rival brand Ide collars, showing several similar styles to the “Falcon”.
1914 ad for the similar looking “Winona” collar by Arrow Brand, illustrated by J.C. Leyendecker
  Similar shape of collar from 1914: “Haverstock” by Ide
Costume History, Menswear

“Inada” wing collar, Cluett, Peabody & Co. Arrow Brand Early 20th Century

Early 20th Century wing collar “Inada” by Cluett, Peabody & Co Arrow Brand. You can print this scan out to use as a pattern.
Early 20th Century wing collar “Inada” by Cluett, Peabody & Co Arrow Brand.
Early 20th Century wing collar “Inada” by Cluett, Peabody & Co Arrow Brand.
This 1907 Arrow Collar “Addison” is similar to the “Inada”.
Costume History, Menswear

“Tyfold” fold collar, 1902 by Cluett, Peabody & Co. Arrow Brand

2 Comments
Cluett, Peabody & Co, Arrow Collar the “Tyfold” type Three from 1903 as worn by the character Nucky Thompson in the first season of Boardwalk Empire
Scanned image of the Tyfold collar laid flat. You can print these out and use them as a pattern.
Scanned image of the Tyfold collar laid flat. You can print these out and use them as a pattern.
Scanned image of the Tyfold collar laid flat. You can print these out and use them as a pattern.
Scanned image of the Tyfold collar laid flat. You can print these out and use them as a pattern.

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UPDATE! I have found 5 different styles of advertisement for the Tyfold to be found in American newspapers in 1903, pretty well blanketing most of the USA. I’m finding Newspapers.com to be the best way to research a date for a debut of a major brand’s collar. This is especially true for a “gadget” type collar that uses a new patented feature. Click on each thumbnail to see more:

The Tyfold’s patented keyhole front feature was apparently not printed on the collar, because the Cluett Co. did not own the patent outright. According to Google Patents it was invented by Edwin F. Brown in 1902:

Also according to this small note in a 1903 newspaper, a “string” tie without a fat back band fit in the collar best: