Tag Archives: Collars and Cuffs

“Collar City” Hudson Valley 40th Annual Firemens Convention badge from June 18-20 1929

I’m simultaneously searching for bits of history of the Terra Linda Fire Department (1958-1972) as well as the history of detachable collars of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, so I was amused to find this fun convention badge of a fire convention held in Troy, New York in 1929. The seal of the city of Troy, known then as “Collar City” has amended to it a dangling icon of a detachable collar.

c.1910 Corliss-Coon & Co “The Style Book” of Detachable Men’s Collars And Cuffs

Small (4.5″x7″) booklet made for small retail firms to give to customers promoting the collars by the Corliss-Coon Company being advertised in Newspapers in 1910. The cover has been personalized with the retailer S.M. Myers & Company of Lancaster, Pennsylvania, a retailer who occasionally is mentioned in newspapers during 1908 -1918.
May 20, 1910 half page Ad in the Lebanon PA Daily News, advertising the collars in the booklet as “new” indicating the probable date of the booklet as 1910.

Box of c.1918 Early 20th Century Military Collars

A recent eBay purchase of assorted starched linen military collars in an old box of a French brand of military collars.  Sizes are in centimeters, and the names are in French and English.  Most of the collars are straight bands and one is a curved band. This page has scans of the collars flattened out so you can use them to make your own straight or curved WWI military collars in these styles.

These are all band collars that button into the neck of a military tunic like this one seen on General Pershing c. 1918

It just forms a small edge in the interior collar, and meets in the front without buttoning closed.

1a Mako garant. 4 fach collar M 465 Uniform 40 36:

PDF of 1a Mako garant 4 fach collar M 465 Uniform 40 36

You can use these patterns above to make replicas of this curved military collar.

1a. Qual. 4 Jacky Uniform 37:

PDF of 1a Qual 4 Jacky Uniform 37

You can use these patterns above to make replicas of this straight military collar.

ST 70 Armee 37:

PDF of ST 70 Armee 37

You can use these patterns above to make replicas of this straight military collar.

17 Armee 45:

PDF of 17 Armee 45

You can use these patterns above to make replicas of this straight military collar.

1926 Celluloid, Parsons and Parsons, Par Brand, Amherst Collar

Celluloid collars provided a low maintenance, waterproof, alternative to starched linen collars, and were stronger than  paper ones.  Their high point seems to have been in the 1880s when they were new, but they still regularly sold through the 1920s.  Celluloid collars are given to cracking, especially after they age, so this one can’t be flattened and scanned for a pattern. However, you can use a bleach bottle and a pattern from a linen collar to make a replica that is stronger than celluloid, washable, and cheap.  

Students from the DVC Beginning Costume Design Class Sp2018 make plastic collars using bleach bottles:

Geo. P Ide & Co., Ide Brand, “Stratton” linen starched fold collar with a lock front for men.

Stratton Collar by Ide.  The unusual looking curved extension on the wearers left side of the collar front helps to lock the collar into position which keeps it from bending with the wearer’s motion and pinching the skin of the neck or distorting the intended shape of the collar.

You can reproduce this collar using these scans as a pattern:

Corliss, Coon & Co. Helmet Brand “Richmond” starched linen wing collar for men

“Richmond” Collar, Helmet Brand by Corliss, Coon & Co., a medium height wing collar with extra long points.

You can use these collar scans to make a pattern to reproduce this collar:

Corliss Coon Helmet Richmond complete

 

Geo. P. Ide & Co. Inc., Ide Brand, “Idewyn” linen detachable fold collar for men, with roll on the front part of the fold.

Ide “Idewyn” Collar

This starched collar is in a style so basic it might be from anywhere from 1890-1935, but it includes an interesting feature from which I will, with continued research, probably be able to “date” it more narrowly: The collar includes a stamp with a laundry directions to “IRON FRONT WITH ROLL” which following makes for an unusual top view.

Front with roll

As you can see the front section gets wider towards the front, which likely would make room for larger tie knots or the apparatus of a clip on tie. This feature is not part of the pattern of the sewn collar, but is part of the laundry starching process, (which any wearer might request as a special starching variation for any fold collar if that was the way they liked it) but the collar having the laundry preference stamped upon it is unusual, as is the example of having the collar survive with the starching style still intact on it.

Stamp on the collar

Top view of the front

You can make a collar pattern using these scans of the collar laid flat:

1907 Cluett, Peabody & Co., Arrow, “Avolyn” linen fold collar for men

And to round out the “A” name Arrow collars from the eBay early 20th Century collar bag purchase, there is also the Avolyn Collar, which is narrower than the Amolek and Ancover:

Arrow Avolyn Collar

This too can be reproduced by printing out the scan of the two halves of this collar onto an 8.5×11 piece of paper and adjusting the overlap of the pieces to the correct neck size you want for making a pattern. 

 

Cluett, Peabody & Co. Arrow Brand “Ancover” linen fold collar for men (post 1899).

Also in my recent eBay purchase of a collar bag and 7 assorted Early 20th Century men’s linen starched detachable collars is an “Ancover” collar, somewhat similar to the “Amolak” previously posted.  It too is clearly post 1899 because the Cluett name that is stamped is Cluett, Peabody & Co.

Arrow Ancover Collar

You can reproduce this type of collar making a pattern from one of these scans.