1926 Celluloid, Parsons and Parsons, Par Brand, Amherst Collar

Celluloid collars provided a low maintenance, waterproof, alternative to starched linen collars, and were stronger than  paper ones.  Their high point seems to have been in the 1880s when they were new, but they still regularly sold through the 1920s.  Celluloid collars are given to cracking, especially after they age, so this one can’t be flattened and scanned for a pattern. However, you can use a bleach bottle and a pattern from a linen collar to make a replica that is stronger than celluloid, washable, and cheap.  

Students from the DVC Beginning Costume Design Class Sp2018 make plastic collars using bleach bottles:

Easy Gathered Rehearsal Skirt

You need:

  • 3 yards of cotton fabric 36” wide or more
  • A pencil or chalk
  • 1 yard of3/4″ elastic
  • 2 large safety pins
  • A needle and thread or Thread and Sewing Machine
  • 2yds of ribbon
  • Scissors or snips

Instructions continued below

Click here for a printable 4 page PDF of these instructions for an “Easy Gathered Rehearsal Skirt with Pictures” as shown above 

  1. Take your 3 yards of fabric and sew the two ends of the wrong side of the fabric together in a big tube with a straight stitch going parallel to the raw edges by 3/8″ and going from one selvedge to 2.5″ below the other selvedge.

2.Press open the seam, then press it into a fold with the raw edge inside, and the seam stitching on the edge.

3. Sew the seam again, this time right side together with a line of stitching 5/8″ parallel to the first seam.  You have just made a French Seam which is very strong, even if you sewed it by hand with 3/16″ stitches!

4. Press the little 2.5″ bit of fabric at top of the seam open, and tuck the seam allowance under itself and stitch the seam allowances so they will stay open.

5. Fold the top selvedge over by 1.5″ with wrong sides together, and press flat. Sew this flap into a 1″ waistband tube for elastic and ribbon.

6. Measure the distance from your natural waist to the floor and subtract the amount you want it raised from the floor (like 2” or 4″) this is your Waist to Hem

Waist to Floor – Distance off floor = Waist to Hem

7. Apply the Waist to Hem measure number to the skirt.  Measure from the bottom of the waistband casing down towards the selvedge, mark with chalk or pencil every 6 inches or so.  Fold the hem in on that line and press.

8. Sew this hem up by hand or machine with a large (and easy to remove) stitch that can be altered for future wearers

9. Cut the two yards of ribbon into two 1-yard sections.  Depending on desired size, cut 24″ of the elastic for a small woman, 30″ for a medium woman, or 36 for a large woman, you can use larger amounts for XXL folks, and smaller ones for children, generally 3-5″ less than the waist measure is a good amount. 

10. Sew the two pieces of ribbon to the two ends of the elastic. 

11. Attach the two safety pins to the two far ends of ribbon.  Fasten one pin to the French seam allowance at top, and push the other end through the waistband tube at the top of the skirt till you have ribbon coming out at both sides of the tube.  

12. Get the center of the elastic to stick in the center of the waistband tube, and do a little bit of hand stitching to fix it there at the center.  Pull more of the ribbon out at both ends and try it on. 

13. Remove the safety pins and cut the ends of the ribbon at a sharp pointed angle to reduce unraveling.  Tie the ribbons into a bow to adjust the snugness of the waist.

That’s it.  It’s done!

Color Plates Pt 2. from c. 1910 Das Schminken in Theorie und Praxis (Makeup in Theory and Practice) Berlin

Grandmother Pt 1
Grandmother Pt 2
Frederich the Great pt 1
Frederich the Great pt 2
Napoleon I pt 1
Napoleon I pt 2
Otto Von Bismark Pt 1
Otto Von Bismark Pt 2
Napoleon III pt 1
Napoleon III pt 2
Gustav Adolf pt 1
Gustav Adolf pt 2
Wallenstein Pt 1
Wallenstein Pt 2
William Tell pt 1
William Tell pt 2
Gessler pt 1  

 

Gessler pt 2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Louis XIV pt 1

 

Louis XIV pt 2
Lohengrin pt 1
Lohengrin pt 2
King Lear Pt 1
King Lear Pt 2
Kuhleborn pt 1
Kuhleborn pt 2
Dr. Faustus pt 1
Dr. Faustus pt 2
Mephistopheles pt 1
Mephistopheles pt 2
the trumpeter of SHistorical akkingen pt 1
the trumpeter of Sakkingen pt 2
Rococo Lady Hair and Makeup pt 1
Rococo Lady Hair and Makeup pt 2
Uncle Brasig pt 1
Uncle Brasig pt 2
The Flying Dutchman pt 1
The Flying Dutchman pt 2
Clown pt 1
Clown part 2
Big Moustache man pt 1
Big Moustache Man pt 2
Tailor/Cutter part 1
Tailor Cutter pt 2
Shoemaker pt 1
Shoemaker pt 2
Comic Sergeant pt
Aging Dude pt 1
Aging Dude pt 2
Sailor pt 1
Sailor pt 2
Rascal pt 1
Rascal pt 2
Schoolmaster pt 1
Schoolmaster pt 2
Comic Old Lady pt 1
Comic Old Lady pt 2
Miser pt 1
Miser pt 2
Goethe pt 1
Goethe pt 2
Old Maid pt 1
Old Maid Pt 2
Babylonian King pt 1
Babylonian King pt 2

 

 

Return to  c. 1910 Das Schminken in Theorie und Praxis (Makeup in Theory and Practice) Berlin

Color Plates Pt. 1 in c. 1910 Das Schminken in Theorie und Praxis (Makeup in Theory and Practice) Berlin

 

Goatee Man pt 1
Goatee Man pt 2
Chinese Man pt 1
Chinese Man pt 2
Japanese Woman Pt 1
Japanese Woman Pt 2
Native American Man Pt 1
Native American Man Pt 2
A Moor Pt 1
A Moor Pt 2
Gypsy Man Pt 1
Gypsy Man Pt 2
Gypsy Woman Pt 1
Gypsy Woman Pt 2
Englishman Pt 1
Englishman Pt 2
Tyrolian Pt 1
Tyrolian Pt 2
Russian Pt 1
Russian Pt 2
Polish Jew Peddlar Pt 1
Polish Jew Peddlar Pt 2
Modern Jew Pt 1
Modern Jew Pt 2
Student pt 1
Student pt 2
Ingenue pt 1
Ingenue pt 2
Soldier pt 1
Soldier pt 2
Lieutenant pt 1
Lieutenant pt 2
Young Lady pt 1
Young Lady pt 2
Sergeant pt 1
Sergeant pt 2
Recruit pt 1
Recruit pt 2
Artist Pt 1
Artist pt 2
Stately Servant pt 1
Stately Servant pt 2
Modern Hairdressing pt 1
Modern Hairdressing pt 2
Modern Hairdressing with goatee pt 1
Modern Hairdressing with goatee pt 2
Ranger pt 1
Ranger pt 2
hero father in his prime pt 1
hero father in his prime pt 2
The Professor pt 1
The Professor pt 2

c. 1910 Das Schminken in Theorie und Praxis (Makeup in Theory and Practice) Berlin

Full book below in gallery format, or you can jump ahead to: 

IntroductionMakeup BasicsColor Plates Pt 1Color Plates pt 2

The Latest Styles for Men & Young Men, Autumn & Winter 1942-43, Ferris Woolen Co. Chicago

This catalog of Men’s and Women’s Tailored Garments would have been published about 6 months after the US joined World War II in December 1941.  It is the sort of thing a store would keep on hand as a guide for ordering semi-custom made garments, even though with rationing on wool being rather severe, the trade in civilian garments would have been considerably curtailed.  Therefore, unlike pre-war catalogs of similar type, there are pages of officer uniforms and women’s work wear suits shown as options.  This type of catalog was usually used to order suits that were 90% mass manufactured, that were later finished to size on the cuffs of jackets and hems of trousers at the store where they were purchased after a fitting on the wearer.

Interestingly, the color images appear to all be printed using only 3 colors of ink: black, bright red and deep blue, which are cleverly used to create the browns, grays and dark blues of the woolen styles.  This makes for all the pops of color having a patriotic flavor, as well as ties in with the theme of “All American Styles!” which is featured in the catalog text and illustrations.  It also likely saved on ink, which would be viewed as both patriotic and practical.

Costume Design & Teaching