Category Archives: Costume History

Costume History, Menswear

“Falcon” fold collar, Arrow Brand, Cluett, Peabody & Co. c.1904-1919

The “Falcon” Collar by Arrow Brand of Cluett, Peabody & Co. shows a 1904 patent for the unusual curved shape of the inner neck band. The outer shape is a style that both existed at that time but was most often seen in ads from 1914-1919. Cluett used this unusual  shape for a minority of their collars for a number of years as a special “comfort” style of collar that appealed to some customers.
The “Falcon” collar as laid out flat on a scanner.
Arrow “Falcon” Collar scan that can be printed out and used to make a pattern. Part 1 of 2
Arrow “Falcon” Collar scan that can be printed out and used to make a pattern. Part 2 of 2
1919 ad for rival brand Ide collars, showing several similar styles to the “Falcon”.
1914 ad for the similar looking “Winona” collar by Arrow Brand, illustrated by J.C. Leyendecker
  Similar shape of collar from 1914: “Haverstock” by Ide
Costume History, Menswear

“Inada” wing collar, Cluett, Peabody & Co. Arrow Brand Early 20th Century

Early 20th Century wing collar “Inada” by Cluett, Peabody & Co Arrow Brand. You can print this scan out to use as a pattern.
Early 20th Century wing collar “Inada” by Cluett, Peabody & Co Arrow Brand.
Early 20th Century wing collar “Inada” by Cluett, Peabody & Co Arrow Brand.
This 1907 Arrow Collar “Addison” is similar to the “Inada”.
Costume History, Menswear

“Tyfold” fold collar, 1902 by Cluett, Peabody & Co. Arrow Brand

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Cluett, Peabody & Co, Arrow Collar the “Tyfold” type Three from 1903 as worn by the character Nucky Thompson in the first season of Boardwalk Empire
Scanned image of the Tyfold collar laid flat. You can print these out and use them as a pattern.
Scanned image of the Tyfold collar laid flat. You can print these out and use them as a pattern.
Scanned image of the Tyfold collar laid flat. You can print these out and use them as a pattern.
Scanned image of the Tyfold collar laid flat. You can print these out and use them as a pattern.

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UPDATE! I have found 5 different styles of advertisement for the Tyfold to be found in American newspapers in 1903, pretty well blanketing most of the USA. I’m finding Newspapers.com to be the best way to research a date for a debut of a major brand’s collar. This is especially true for a “gadget” type collar that uses a new patented feature. Click on each thumbnail to see more:

The Tyfold’s patented keyhole front feature was apparently not printed on the collar, because the Cluett Co. did not own the patent outright. According to Google Patents it was invented by Edwin F. Brown in 1902:

Also according to this small note in a 1903 newspaper, a “string” tie without a fat back band fit in the collar best:

Costume History, Menswear

1910 Spring-Summer Great Western Tailoring Company Catalog, Chicago

Cover image of a cowgirl and her horse

Scene from Theatrical presentation of Ceasar

Four Button Sack Suit

Three Button Sack Suit

Two Button Double Breasted Sack Suit

Straight Front Sack Suit

Actress Leslie Carter in a Play, c. 1910

Three Button Sack Suit with fancy details

Two Button Sack Suit with Long Lapels

One Button Sack Suit with Long Lapels

Five Button Sack Suit with Fancy Detailing

Three Button Double Breasted Sack Suit and One Button Sack Suit with Long Lapels

Three Button Double Breasted Sack Suit and a Four Button Sack Suit with rounded corners

Actress Miss Talliaferro in “Polly of the Circus” Stage production c.1910

Long Roll Lapel Sack Suit and a One Button Sack Suit

Norfolk Jacket Sack Suit, and a Three Button Sack Suit with Fancy Details

Two loose swatches from the catalog

Page with two loose swatches

Two Button Sack suit, Two Button Outing Sack Suit, and Three Button Double Breasted Sack Suit

Swatch page with missing swatches

English Walking Frock coat suit, Three Button Frock Coat Cutaway jacket and Morning Stripe Pants, and One Button Frock Coat Suit

swatch page with missing wool swatches

Scene from a theatre performance of “The Fighting Hope”

Swatch page with missing swatches

Formal evening dress (left) and formal day dress (right) for 1910

Formal wear for men in 1910, L to R: Tuxedo with Shawl Collar (Evening wear for all male gatherings), Full Dress “White Tie” and tailcoat for formal wear in evening gatherings in mixed company, a Single Breasted Prince Albert suit for formal day occasions, a Tuxedo suit with peaked lapels for Black Tie evening wear, a double breasted Prince Albert coat for formal day occasions like weddings.

swatch page with missing swatches

A large group of 1910 white men in formal dress and blackface makeup arrayed in a row on stage for a blackface minstrel show.
“Lambs Gambol” Minstrel show

Swatch page with missing swatches

Page of choices for available pocket and cuff details

Choices of cuff and pocket details

Cuff and pocket choices, detail

Cuff and pocket details

Cuff and pocket details

Swatch page with missing swatches

Coats: Fly Front Overcoat, Top Coat
Chesterfield Overcoat

Styles of trousers

Styles of Trousers: Regular, Half Peg, Full Peg

Swatch page with missing swatches

swatch page with missing swatches

Vest Styles

1910 Vest Styles

Swatch page with missing swatches

swatch page with missing swatches

stray loose swatch

What to Wear advice for men in 1910 for all occasions

What to wear in 1910 for men: advice for all occasions