Catalog of Men’s Tailoring Styles of 1923:
All posts by tara@costumes.org
Pick Brothers Co. West Bend, Fashion Suggester 1912 Menswear Pamphlet
What Well Dressed Men Will Wear, Spring – Summer 1935, Ferris Woolen Co., Chicago.
Favored Fashions for Men and Young Men, Autumn 1928 – Winter 1929
Geo. P Ide & Co., Ide Brand, “Stratton” linen starched fold collar with a lock front for men.
Corliss, Coon & Co. Helmet Brand “Richmond” starched linen wing collar for men
Geo. P. Ide & Co. Inc., Ide Brand, “Idewyn” linen detachable fold collar for men, with roll on the front part of the fold.
This starched collar is in a style so basic it might be from anywhere from 1890-1935, but it includes an interesting feature from which I will, with continued research, probably be able to “date” it more narrowly: The collar includes a stamp with a laundry directions to “IRON FRONT WITH ROLL” which following makes for an unusual top view.
As you can see the front section gets wider towards the front, which likely would make room for larger tie knots or the apparatus of a clip on tie. This feature is not part of the pattern of the sewn collar, but is part of the laundry starching process, (which any wearer might request as a special starching variation for any fold collar if that was the way they liked it) but the collar having the laundry preference stamped upon it is unusual, as is the example of having the collar survive with the starching style still intact on it.
You can make a collar pattern using these scans of the collar laid flat:
S.S. Brand “Chester” linen starched stand collar for a man, early 20th Century.
1907 Cluett, Peabody & Co., Arrow, “Avolyn” linen fold collar for men
And to round out the “A” name Arrow collars from the eBay early 20th Century collar bag purchase, there is also the Avolyn Collar, which is narrower than the Amolek and Ancover:
This too can be reproduced by printing out the scan of the two halves of this collar onto an 8.5×11 piece of paper and adjusting the overlap of the pieces to the correct neck size you want for making a pattern.
Cluett, Peabody & Co. Arrow Brand “Ancover” linen fold collar for men (post 1899).
Also in my recent eBay purchase of a collar bag and 7 assorted Early 20th Century men’s linen starched detachable collars is an “Ancover” collar, somewhat similar to the “Amolak” previously posted. It too is clearly post 1899 because the Cluett name that is stamped is Cluett, Peabody & Co.
You can reproduce this type of collar making a pattern from one of these scans.