Catalog of mail order suits from 1935
This starched collar is in a style so basic it might be from anywhere from 1890-1935, but it includes an interesting feature from which I will, with continued research, probably be able to “date” it more narrowly: The collar includes a stamp with a laundry directions to “IRON FRONT WITH ROLL” which following makes for an unusual top view.
As you can see the front section gets wider towards the front, which likely would make room for larger tie knots or the apparatus of a clip on tie. This feature is not part of the pattern of the sewn collar, but is part of the laundry starching process, (which any wearer might request as a special starching variation for any fold collar if that was the way they liked it) but the collar having the laundry preference stamped upon it is unusual, as is the example of having the collar survive with the starching style still intact on it.
You can make a collar pattern using these scans of the collar laid flat:
And to round out the “A” name Arrow collars from the eBay early 20th Century collar bag purchase, there is also the Avolyn Collar, which is narrower than the Amolek and Ancover:
This too can be reproduced by printing out the scan of the two halves of this collar onto an 8.5×11 piece of paper and adjusting the overlap of the pieces to the correct neck size you want for making a pattern.
Also in my recent eBay purchase of a collar bag and 7 assorted Early 20th Century men’s linen starched detachable collars is an “Ancover” collar, somewhat similar to the “Amolak” previously posted. It too is clearly post 1899 because the Cluett name that is stamped is Cluett, Peabody & Co.
You can reproduce this type of collar making a pattern from one of these scans.
I recently purchased a small early 20th Century man’s collar bag on eBay with 7 collars still in it. It was an ordinary enough travel bag such as any middle class man might own in the 1890-1920 era, but unusually, the 7 collars were each a different style, with several different brands represented.
As I care about collecting different types of these collars, rather than the more expensive hobby of collecting the containers, it was a good deal. The Arrow Amolek was one of these.
This general style of collar was popular in the 1890s-1920s, but seems to be most popular in the mid 1890s and late 1910s.
However, the collar cannot be from the mid 1890s as the Cluett company was not called “Cluett, Peabody and Co.” until 1899, so it is a post-1899 collar.
However, I know what you really want is those handy collar scans which can be used to make collar patterns. This one you can use if you need the same size as the original and have a long-paper printer:
Or this one for making a collar to another size which can print on 8.5×11 paper:
I recently purchased this Early 1870s Man’s card stock weight Paper Collar for study and sharing. It came in an exceptionally nifty full color box, such is often found in 1870s -1880s collars. I’m guessing originally the box would have contained more than one, as these collars are rather fragile. The box has both a color lithographed top picture and a side indicator of size, both pasted on the yellow top of the box.
Despite the splendor of the box, however, the collar is the real treasure. It has an unusually complex folding system for making the shape. I have photographed and scanned it every which way so you can see how it is made, and even reproduce it with cardstock on your own!
The pattern of the collar as scanned, both partly folded and completely unfolded:
If Paper collars intrigue you, go to the cool illustrated 6 part scholarly article by Brenton Grom on the Disposable America site entitled Slaves of Fashion, Loafers of Industry: A History of Paper Collars and the Men Who Wore Them which has lots of pictures, incisive comment, research and, conveniently, patent illustrations that also can be used as patterns!
Catalog of detachable collars and cuffs for women and children, along with small photos of collar making and collar starching workers. At this time Lion Brand was the oldest collar making trade mark in the US.
The Collar
