More collars from my early collection drawn c.1980
Hand Drawn Collar patterns of Early 20th Century Detachable Collars Pt3: Two Wing Collars, the “Lido” & “Host”
Tag Archives: patterns
Searle Manufacturing Co. Sorosis Woman’s Detachable Collar c.1900
Detachable starched collars were also popular for women in the Late 19th and Early 20th Centuries. Typically they were more expensive than men’s models, had embroidered or lace decoration, were lighter weight, and were more varied in style. This one has hand fagoting insertion. The name of the collar seems to refer to the Sorosis Club of NYC, the first club in the US for professional women.
Box of c.1918 Early 20th Century Military Collars
A recent eBay purchase of assorted starched linen military collars in an old box of a French brand of military collars. Sizes are in centimeters, and the names are in French and English. Most of the collars are straight bands and one is a curved band. This page has scans of the collars flattened out so you can use them to make your own straight or curved WWI military collars in these styles.
These are all band collars that button into the neck of a military tunic like this one seen on General Pershing c. 1918
It just forms a small edge in the interior collar, and meets in the front without buttoning closed.
1a Mako garant. 4 fach collar M 465 Uniform 40 36:
PDF of 1a Mako garant 4 fach collar M 465 Uniform 40 36
You can use these patterns above to make replicas of this curved military collar.
1a. Qual. 4 Jacky Uniform 37:
PDF of 1a Qual 4 Jacky Uniform 37
You can use these patterns above to make replicas of this straight military collar.
ST 70 Armee 37:
You can use these patterns above to make replicas of this straight military collar.
17 Armee 45:
You can use these patterns above to make replicas of this straight military collar.
Geo. P Ide & Co., Ide Brand, “Stratton” linen starched fold collar with a lock front for men.
You can reproduce this collar using these scans as a pattern:
Corliss, Coon & Co. Helmet Brand “Richmond” starched linen wing collar for men
You can use these collar scans to make a pattern to reproduce this collar:
Geo. P. Ide & Co. Inc., Ide Brand, “Idewyn” linen detachable fold collar for men, with roll on the front part of the fold.
This starched collar is in a style so basic it might be from anywhere from 1890-1935, but it includes an interesting feature from which I will, with continued research, probably be able to “date” it more narrowly: The collar includes a stamp with a laundry directions to “IRON FRONT WITH ROLL” which following makes for an unusual top view.
As you can see the front section gets wider towards the front, which likely would make room for larger tie knots or the apparatus of a clip on tie. This feature is not part of the pattern of the sewn collar, but is part of the laundry starching process, (which any wearer might request as a special starching variation for any fold collar if that was the way they liked it) but the collar having the laundry preference stamped upon it is unusual, as is the example of having the collar survive with the starching style still intact on it.
You can make a collar pattern using these scans of the collar laid flat:
S.S. Brand “Chester” linen starched stand collar for a man, early 20th Century.
The Chester collar is a very high stand collar with rounded corners and curve at the base that can cause a mild flare at top, depending how well it fits at the neck.
You can reproduce the collar based on these scans:
1907 Cluett, Peabody & Co., Arrow, “Avolyn” linen fold collar for men
And to round out the “A” name Arrow collars from the eBay early 20th Century collar bag purchase, there is also the Avolyn Collar, which is narrower than the Amolek and Ancover:
This too can be reproduced by printing out the scan of the two halves of this collar onto an 8.5×11 piece of paper and adjusting the overlap of the pieces to the correct neck size you want for making a pattern.
Cluett, Peabody & Co. Arrow Brand “Ancover” linen fold collar for men (post 1899).
Also in my recent eBay purchase of a collar bag and 7 assorted Early 20th Century men’s linen starched detachable collars is an “Ancover” collar, somewhat similar to the “Amolak” previously posted. It too is clearly post 1899 because the Cluett name that is stamped is Cluett, Peabody & Co.
You can reproduce this type of collar making a pattern from one of these scans.
Cluett, Peabody & Co., Arrow Brand, “Amolek” linen fold collar for men (post 1899).
I recently purchased a small early 20th Century man’s collar bag on eBay with 7 collars still in it. It was an ordinary enough travel bag such as any middle class man might own in the 1890-1920 era, but unusually, the 7 collars were each a different style, with several different brands represented.
As I care about collecting different types of these collars, rather than the more expensive hobby of collecting the containers, it was a good deal. The Arrow Amolek was one of these.
This general style of collar was popular in the 1890s-1920s, but seems to be most popular in the mid 1890s and late 1910s.
However, the collar cannot be from the mid 1890s as the Cluett company was not called “Cluett, Peabody and Co.” until 1899, so it is a post-1899 collar.
However, I know what you really want is those handy collar scans which can be used to make collar patterns. This one you can use if you need the same size as the original and have a long-paper printer:
Or this one for making a collar to another size which can print on 8.5×11 paper:
