Feel free to print and use or adapt for your own costume or sewing classes!
Additional Explanation Of Hand Sewing Stitches for Regency Reticule Project 
Additional Explanation Of Hand Sewing Stitches for Regency Reticule Project
Tag Archives: Free Patterns
The Cutter’s Practical Guide
Is a series of books by W. D. F. Vincent that covered tailor’s pattern drafting for all sorts of garments in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
When my Costumer’s Manifesto Site was working I had a bunch of these (not all) online (and hope to do so again), but in the meantime, all the parts I posted in PDF form are still available online at assorted sites at these outside links:
the Victorian Patterns Board has all of them listed by Volume on this page.
Hathi Trust link to nicer scan of the the University of California PDF of Cutter’s Guide volume on Children’s Clothing
Hathi Trust link to the University of California PDF of The Cutter’s practical guide to cutting and making shirts, undergarments, collars, and specialty clothing for various occupations
Very good scan of the Volume on Women’s Clothing
Archive.org copy of: Vincent’s systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments : part 1 : dealing with the cutting of various styles of trousers, breeches, knickers, pantaloons, leggings and gaiters, and waistcoats 1903 by Vincent, W. D. F (William D. F.) 1860-1925
Siam Costumes has a bunch of these, as well as other tailoring, costume, and needlework copyright expired pdfs at “Cutter’s Guides” pages. Click on “Pattern Guides Female” and “Pattern Guides Male” to find loads of volumes of WDF Vincent’s Cutter’s Guide, including British Military Uniforms, Clerical Dress, Lounge & Sportswear, Livery, etc.
W D F Vincent “The Cutter’s Practical Guide” Part 10 – Waistcoats (3rd Edition)
Archive.org copy of 1890 volume on Women’s Garments
Wikisource 1898 Volume 1 on Juvenile & Youth Garments
The Group, The Victorian Sweatshop Forum has a large number of the volumes available to registered members of the forum, so if you have a strong interest join and go to their Cutter’s Guide Files
The Tailor’s Handbook of Useful Information on Social, Literary, Historical, Practical and Scientific Subjects (also by W.D.F. Vincent)
About The Vincent Square (Tailor’s Ruler)
Also co-authored by W. D. F. Vincent: The sewing machine : an historical and practical exposition of the sewing machine from its inception to the present time : containing explanations showing the modern methods of garment making applied to all kinds of tailor-made garments c.1910, by Lyons, Lewis; Allen, T. W; Vincent, W. D. F. (William D. F.), 1860-1926; Sallie Bingham Center for Women’s History and Culture. NcD
Hand Drawn Collar patterns of Early 20th Century Detachable Collars Pt3: Two Wing Collars, the “Lido” & “Host”
More collars from my early collection drawn c.1980
Hand Drawn Collar patterns of Early 20th Century Detachable Collars Pt2: Triangle “Plaza” Club Collar with Lock front
So, continuing with the drawings I made back c.1978-80 of my collar collection, here is another example.
Triangle Plaza Collar 
Triangle Plaza Collar 
Triangle Plaza Collar 
Triangle Plaza Collar 
Triangle Plaza Collar
Hand Drawn Collar patterns of Early 20th Century Detachable Collars Pt1: Four Wing Collars and a club Collar, the Ashbourne-2
One of the things that has weirdly defined my life is that pretty much since I went to college and first got serious about costuming I have been working on writing a costume book. It never gets finished, but I make lots of components for it. In the 1990s this morphed into The Costumers Manifesto web site, but back around the late 1970s and early 1980s it was just a few random things that interested me. Detachable hard collars have always had a fascination for me and so in those pre-Internet and pre-home printer/scanner/copier days I set out to make life size drawings to be used as patterns of my then small collar collection (back when it still fit in a single large cookie tin) in imitation of my hero Janet Arnold. These were laboriously hand drawn with a Rapidograph, a high maintenance technical pen that is the ancestor of my now favorite Signo Uniball pens.
The idea with all these is that since both sides of the collar are identical, you can use them to form a pattern that you can lengthen to the needed size so long as you have the basic shape. In all cases seam allowance must be added!
Box of c.1918 Early 20th Century Military Collars
A recent eBay purchase of assorted starched linen military collars in an old box of a French brand of military collars. Sizes are in centimeters, and the names are in French and English. Most of the collars are straight bands and one is a curved band. This page has scans of the collars flattened out so you can use them to make your own straight or curved WWI military collars in these styles.
These are all band collars that button into the neck of a military tunic like this one seen on General Pershing c. 1918
It just forms a small edge in the interior collar, and meets in the front without buttoning closed.
1a Mako garant. 4 fach collar M 465 Uniform 40 36:
PDF of 1a Mako garant 4 fach collar M 465 Uniform 40 36
You can use these patterns above to make replicas of this curved military collar.
1a. Qual. 4 Jacky Uniform 37:
PDF of 1a Qual 4 Jacky Uniform 37
You can use these patterns above to make replicas of this straight military collar.
ST 70 Armee 37:
You can use these patterns above to make replicas of this straight military collar.
17 Armee 45:
You can use these patterns above to make replicas of this straight military collar.
Geo. P Ide & Co., Ide Brand, “Stratton” linen starched fold collar with a lock front for men.
You can reproduce this collar using these scans as a pattern:
Corliss, Coon & Co. Helmet Brand “Richmond” starched linen wing collar for men
You can use these collar scans to make a pattern to reproduce this collar:
Geo. P. Ide & Co. Inc., Ide Brand, “Idewyn” linen detachable fold collar for men, with roll on the front part of the fold.
This starched collar is in a style so basic it might be from anywhere from 1890-1935, but it includes an interesting feature from which I will, with continued research, probably be able to “date” it more narrowly: The collar includes a stamp with a laundry directions to “IRON FRONT WITH ROLL” which following makes for an unusual top view.
As you can see the front section gets wider towards the front, which likely would make room for larger tie knots or the apparatus of a clip on tie. This feature is not part of the pattern of the sewn collar, but is part of the laundry starching process, (which any wearer might request as a special starching variation for any fold collar if that was the way they liked it) but the collar having the laundry preference stamped upon it is unusual, as is the example of having the collar survive with the starching style still intact on it.
You can make a collar pattern using these scans of the collar laid flat:
S.S. Brand “Chester” linen starched stand collar for a man, early 20th Century.
The Chester collar is a very high stand collar with rounded corners and curve at the base that can cause a mild flare at top, depending how well it fits at the neck.
You can reproduce the collar based on these scans:
